Framing Tips

Framing an interior partition

The framing for interior walls includes the same studs, plates, headers, cripples and trimmers that make up an exterior wall. You can construct them in the same way, too - assembling all the components on the floor, and then tipping the framework into position. But if space is tight or you must compensate for an uneven floor or ceiling, consider attaching plates to the floor and ceiling, then cutting or nailing in studs one at a time. First figure the dimensions of the partitions you plan to build. Although the standard ceiling height is 8 feet, older homes often have higher ceilings and basements often have lower ones. If the floor is carpeted, remove it from the places where the new partitions will stand. Measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling or ceiling joists. Do this in several places along the line of the partitions to see whether there is any unevenness to account for. Sketch out the framework on graph paper. Studs should be located 16 inches apart, measured from the centers of adjoining studs. If you´re going to install a door, try to have one side of the opening fall at a regular stud location. This will save a little on materials costs. Cut the top and bottom plates to length, lay them side by side and use a combination square to mark stud locations. Lift the top plate into place and nail it to the bottoms of joists or to blocking nailed between joists. You´ll need a helper to hold the plate while you nail. Next, have your helper dangle a plumb bob from the end of the top plate and at one or two points along one edge of it. Use the bob to plot the bottom plate´s location. Nail the bottom plate to a wood floor - fasten it to concrete with masonry connectors such as lag screws and lead anchors. With the top and bottom plates installed, measure between them for the length of each stud. Add 1/16 inch for a snug fit, then cut the studs. Tap or kick each stud into place.

Toenailing

To secure the studs, drive nails at a 45-degree angle through the end of a stud and into the plate. Don´t worry if the first nail you drive moves the stud. The second nail, driven in from the other side, should move it back. Another way to brace studs for toenailing is with a 14 1/2-inch-long spacer block. Place it between the last secured stud and the one you´re about to nail.

Turning a corner

If your project calls for building two or more walls that connect to each other, you need to know how to join the wall sections together properly. This involves making sure the walls are square with each other and providing a nailing surface for the drywall. This arrangement includes an extra stud that provides a nailing surface and buttresses the corner as well. Fasten the studs together with 16-penny nails. You can also create a corner with 2x4 scraps sandwiched between two full-length studs at the end of one wall or the other. Use three spacers in a standard 8-foot wall. Where two walls intersect, nail three studs together and to the plates at the point of intersection. Then center the intersecting wall between the outside faces of the studs, square the corners and nail the wall into place.

Framing an opening

If your wall will include a doorway, mark its location on the bottom plate, but don´t cut the plate before installing it. Plan an opening that is 2.5 inches wider than the door-to allow for the side jambs and shims, and 2 inches higher, to allow for the top jamb - shims and carpeting or other flooring that goes beneath the door.

Install studs until you reach the opening, and then nail trimmers to the studs on either side. Trimmers provide solid, unbending support for the door and also for a header up top. Make the header from two 2x6s with a 1/2-inch plywood sandwiched between them. Install cripples above the header, and then cut away the bottom plate.

Framing with metal studs

Metal framing systems are even easier to install than wooden ones, and metal offers several other advantages over wood - metal framing members won´t warp in damp places and each stud is perfectly straight and uniform.

Bear in mind that a metal-framed wall is somewhat fragile until it´s covered with drywall. Use caution when working with metal studs so you don´t accidentally damage them. Also, metal studs have little compressive strength, so don´t use them for load-bearing walls or walls that must support heavy shelves.

Metal studs are usually galvanized steel, and they come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The most common types are the C stud and the channel track. You cut the channels with snips and fasten them to the floor and ceiling. Cut the studs to length, slip each one sideways into the channels, then give it a twist at top and bottom. You´ll feel a firm snap as the stud locks into place in the tracks. Finish off a metal stud wall by screwing 5/8-inch-thick drywall to the studs and tracks. The framing won´t be sturdy until drywall is securely fastened to it.

Time frame

Framing goes up fast. Two people can erect the exterior walls for a single-story structure in a day or two. Same goes for a simple interior partition layout. Metal framing, which doesn´t require toenailing, or nailing of any sort for that matter, goes together in a matter of hours. In fact, you may be able to erect a metal frame wall and cover it with drywall in a single day.

Framing Materials

Choosing lumber

Most framing lumber is 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x12. Of course none of these nominal lumber dimensions actually measures 2 inches thick, and none are even numbers of inches wide, either. What you get after the wood has been milled is a board that is 1 1/2 inches thick and 1/2 or 3/4 inch narrower than its broader dimension: 2x4s and 2x6s come out 3 1/2 and 5 1/2 inches wide. 2x8s, 2x10s and 2x12s measure 7 1/4, 9 1/4 and 11 1/4 inches respectively. You can purchase 2-by lumber in actual lengths that range from 6 to 20 feet, in 2-foot increments. For framing, buy top-of-the-line SELECT STRUCTURAL and NO. 1 grade. Cheaper grades aren´t as strong, straight or easy to work with. Before you set out for a materials dealer, draw up a list detailing your needs. List the quantity, thickness, width, length and grade in that order. Example - four pieces 2x4x8 feet SELECT. After placing your order, walk out into the yard to see firsthand what you´re getting. If you spot any boards that are split, knot-ridden or badly warped, reject them. If you´re having a load of SELECT delivered, you can cull bad lumber at curbside.

When you bring framing lumber home, store it in a cool, dry place, raised several inches off the floor so air can circulate underneath. Moisture can warp boards, so cover them with plastic if you must store lumber outside.

Choosing sheathing

Sheathing provides a smooth, flat base for exterior wall materials, blocks air infiltration and often brings rigidity or insulation value to a wall. You can sheathe a wall with plywood - as we did - fiberboard, gypsum or cement board, or plastic. Plywood sheathing beefs up a wall´s structure and provides a sound base for nailing siding or shingles. It´s a poor insulator though, and costs more than other sheathings. Fiberboard sheathing, also called insulation board, has more than twice the insulating value of plywood. It consists of pressed wood fibers, often coated or impregnated with asphalt. You can nail exterior materials to high-density fiberboard sheathing. With other types of fiberboard you must use special nails driven into studs. Gypsum and cement board sheathings resemble drywall. They bring fire resistance to a wall and provide an excellent base for applying stucco. Gypsum and cement board have a negligible insulation value but can be combined with insulation board for energy savings. Exterior materials must be nailed to studs. Plastic sheathing, usually made of polyurethane or polystyrene, has a very high insulation value. Panel edges fit together tongue-and-groove fashion to eliminate any possibility of air gaps between panels. Plastic insulation contributes almost no rigidity to a wall, so walls must be temporarily braced until exterior materials are installed.

Choosing nails

To determine the size of nail you need, keep in mind that generally you want one that is long enough to go two-thirds of the way through the lumber you´re nailing into. Many, though not all, nails still are sold by the antiquated "penny" system. If you need 3 1/4-inch common nails, for example, ask for so many 12-penny common nails. You can buy nails either in bulk or boxes.

For framing work you´ll need lots of 12-penny nails, plus a few 16-pennies for nailing through into lumber that is more than 1 1/2 inch thick.

Nail up most sheathing with galvanized box nails. Use 6-penny nails if the sheathing is less than 1/2 inch thick, 7- or 8-penny nails for materials 1/2 inch or thicker. Ring-shank and spiral nails provide greater holding power. Fasten plastic sheathing to framing with construction adhesive.

Use masonry nails to attach a bottom plate to a concrete floor. Or bore holes in the floor, fit them with lead anchors, and drive lag screws through the plate into the anchors.